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| SYMPTOM | CAUSE | SOLUTION |
|
LOSE YOUR PEDAL DURING RACE
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Fluid boiling due to wet fluid or foot drag. | Flush out entire system with fresh Wilwood Hi-Temp° 570 racing brake fluid. Install dashboard brake light reminder. |
| Undersize brake system. | Refer to the caliper portion of the catalog to select the correct caliper/rotor combination for your application. | |
| Wrong size residual pressure valve. | Use no larger than 2 lb residual pressure valve. | |
| Incorrect or faulty master cylinder. | Repair or replace master cylinder. | |
| Leak in caliper or hydraulic lines. | Check for leaks in caliper and lines. | |
| Inadequate ducting. | Reposition air ducts to center of rotor and caliper. (refer to Wilwood air duct technical sheet) | |
| Pedal linkage failure. | Check pedal assembly. | |
| Excessive spindle deflection in corners. | Check spindles for warpage. Install 2 lb residual pressure valve. | |
|
BRAKE DRAG
|
Bad master cylinder. | Switch or replace master cylinder. |
| Incorrect residual pressure valve. | Use no larger than 2 lb residual pressure valve. | |
| Rotors warped. | Replace rotors. | |
| Calipers not square to rotor. | Re-align brackets or shim calipers. | |
| Tapered brake pads. | Replace pads, check caliper alignment to rotor. | |
| M/C has internal residual pressure. | Remove residual pressure valve. | |
|
CAR WILL NOT STOP
|
Glazed pads and/or rotors. | Grind and/or sand glaze from rotors. |
|
HAVE TO PUSH TOO HARD ON PEDAL
|
Too large of a master cylinder. | See master cylinder section of catalog to select the correct size unit for your application. |
| Not enough pedal ratio. | Increase pedal ratio, see pedal section of catalog. | |
| Pedal mounted at bad angle. | Master cylinder push rod should not be off more than 5° in any angle | |
| Wrong pad material for your applications. | Pads must match rotor operating temperature range. See pad section of catalog. | |
| Frozen pistons in calipers. | Rebuild calipers. | |
|
CALIPER LEAKS
|
Caliper seal old or dried out. | Replace with new seals. |
| Nick or ding on piston or cut seal. | Replace pistons and/or seals as necessary. | |
|
SPONGY PEDAL OR BOTTOMS OUT
|
Air in brake system. | Re-bleed the system. |
| Calipers not bled with bleed screws straight up. | Unbolt calipers and hold with bleed screws in the vertical position. | |
| Wrong size master cylinder (too small). | Refer to master cylinder section of catalog to select the correct size for your application. | |
| Faulty master cylinder. | Replace master cylinder. | |
| Calipers not mounted square to the rotor. | Re-align brackets parallel to rotor, or shim caliper. | |
| Calipers mounted equal to, or higher than master cylinder. | Install 2 pound in-line residual pressure valve. | |
| Calipers flex excessively. | Check pressure. Do not exceed 1,200 P.S.I. | |
| Pedal ratio too great. | Reduce pedal ratio. | |
| Excessive spindle deflection in corners causing piston knock-back. | Install 2 pound in-line residual pressure valve. Check spindles for warpage. | |
|
OSCILLATION FEED BACK IN PEDAL
|
Excessive rotor run out. | Shim between rotor and hub/hat. |
| Pad material buildup on rotors. | Change pads, clean rotor face. | |
| Calipers loose. | Tighten caliper mounting bolts. | |
| Rotor faces not parallel. | Re-grind rotor faces, or replace rotors. | |
| Cracked rotors. | Replace rotors. | |
| Excessive front bearing clearance. | Check for proper bearing size, or tighten the spindle nut. |
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