| SYMPTOM |
CAUSE |
SOLUTION |
LOSE YOUR PEDAL DURING RACE |
Fluid boiling due to wet fluid or foot drag. |
Flush out entire system with fresh Wilwood Hi-Temp° 570 racing brake fluid. Install dashboard brake light reminder. |
| Undersize brake system. |
Refer to the caliper portion of the catalog to select the correct caliper/rotor combination for your application. |
| Wrong size residual pressure valve. |
Use no larger than 2 lb residual pressure valve. |
| Incorrect or faulty master cylinder. |
Repair or replace master cylinder. |
| Leak in caliper or hydraulic lines. |
Check for leaks in caliper and lines. |
| Inadequate ducting. |
Reposition air ducts to center of rotor and caliper. (refer to Wilwood air duct technical sheet) |
| Pedal linkage failure. |
Check pedal assembly. |
| Excessive spindle deflection in corners. |
Check spindles for warpage. Install 2 lb residual pressure valve. |
BRAKE DRAG |
Bad master cylinder. |
Switch or replace master cylinder. |
| Incorrect residual pressure valve. |
Use no larger than 2 lb residual pressure valve. |
| Rotors warped. |
Replace rotors. |
| Calipers not square to rotor. |
Re-align brackets or shim calipers. |
| Tapered brake pads. |
Replace pads, check caliper alignment to rotor. |
| M/C has internal residual pressure. |
Remove residual pressure valve. |
CAR WILL NOT STOP |
Glazed pads and/or rotors. |
Grind and/or sand glaze from rotors. |
HAVE TO PUSH TOO HARD ON PEDAL |
Too large of a master cylinder. |
See master cylinder section of catalog to select the correct size unit for your application. |
| Not enough pedal ratio. |
Increase pedal ratio, see pedal section of catalog. |
| Pedal mounted at bad angle. |
Master cylinder push rod should not be off more than 5° in any angle |
| Wrong pad material for your applications. |
Pads must match rotor operating temperature range. See pad section of catalog. |
| Frozen pistons in calipers. |
Rebuild calipers. |
CALIPER LEAKS |
Caliper seal old or dried out. |
Replace with new seals. |
| Nick or ding on piston or cut seal. |
Replace pistons and/or seals as necessary. |
SPONGY PEDAL OR BOTTOMS OUT |
Air in brake system. |
Re-bleed the system. |
| Calipers not bled with bleed screws straight up. |
Unbolt calipers and hold with bleed screws in the vertical position. |
| Wrong size master cylinder (too small). |
Refer to master cylinder section of catalog to select the correct size for your application. |
| Faulty master cylinder. |
Replace master cylinder. |
| Calipers not mounted square to the rotor. |
Re-align brackets parallel to rotor, or shim caliper. |
| Calipers mounted equal to, or higher than master cylinder. |
Install 2 pound in-line residual pressure valve. |
| Calipers flex excessively. |
Check pressure. Do not exceed 1,200 P.S.I. |
| Pedal ratio too great. |
Reduce pedal ratio. |
| Excessive spindle deflection in corners causing piston knock-back. |
Install 2 pound in-line residual pressure valve. Check spindles for warpage. |
OSCILLATION FEED BACK IN PEDAL |
Excessive rotor run out. |
Shim between rotor and hub/hat. |
| Pad material buildup on rotors. |
Change pads, clean rotor face. |
| Calipers loose. |
Tighten caliper mounting bolts. |
| Rotor faces not parallel. |
Re-grind rotor faces, or replace rotors. |
| Cracked rotors. |
Replace rotors. |
| Excessive front bearing clearance. |
Check for proper bearing size, or tighten the spindle nut. |
